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Ext/Exp Station PubsSleeve Plackets and Bands
Guide C-222
Susan Wright, Extension Clothing and Textiles SpecialistCollege of Agriculture, Consumer and Environmental Sciences New Mexico State University
This publication is scheduled to be updated and reissued 3/06.If the garment has sleeves with cuffs, it will require plackets unless the cuffs are made of a stretch knit fabric or are "pull-on" cuffs. The following plackets are simple and quick.
Making a Placket
Faced Placket1. Cut out sleeve and facing pieces and mark the location of the placket (fig. 1).
2. If a facing pattern piece is not provided, cut two 3" x 4" rectangles of matching fabric.
3. Finish the side and the top edges of the facing (fig. 2).
4. Pin the facing to the sleeve with right sides together, centered over the facing markings (fig. 3).
5. Stitch along markings using very small stitches near the point. For easier turning, stitch one small stitch across point (fig. 4).
6. Slash to the point of the "V" turn the placket to the wrong side and press. Understitch seam to facing.
7. Cut 2 stripes of fusible web about 1/2" square.
8. Place the web between the facing and sleeve side at the top and fuse (fig. 5).
NOTE: Try this technique on a small swatch of fabric. If it mars the fabric, hand stitch top corners of patch to sleeve.
Mock Placket
1. Cut out the sleeve and make a mark at the center of the placket (fig. 6).
2. Reinforce the opening by stitching 1" on each side of the center along 5/8" seamline (fig. 7)
3. Clip to the reinforcement stitching 1/2" on either side of the center mark (fig. 8). Place a drop of seam sealant on edges of each snip. Let dry.
4. Fold the resulting "placket" section twice to the inside. Topstitch or slipstitch in place (fig. 9).
Continuous Lap Placket
1. Cut two pieces of binding fabric 1" wide and twice the length of the placket. Cut this binding on lengthwise grain.
2. Fold binding in half lengthwise, then fold each half matching edge to fold (fig. 10).
3. Reinforce the placket opening by sewing small stitches on the stitching line. Stitch one stitch across point of placket to make turning easier (fig. 11).
4. Slash placket through center of stitching to the point, but not through the point.
5. Pin the binding to the placket with right sides together. Match the first fold of the binding to the stitching line.
6. With sleeve on top, stitch the binding to placket sewing just inside reinforcement stitching (fig. 12).
7. Fold binding over stitching, press and pin carefully (fig. 13).
8. Stitch binding in place by topstitching or stitching-in-the-ditch (fig. 14).
9. Fold placket into position, lapping binding evenly. Stitch a diagonal across top of binding to make a small triangle (fig. 15).
10. Stitch binding in position at bottom of placket.
Finishing the Sleeves
After you have completed the sleeve plackets, finish the bottom of the sleeves by gathering the fullness (fig. 16) or folding pleats (fig. 17) as the pattern requires.
Finishing the Bands
1. Interface the bands and fold in half lengthwise. Sew each end on 5/8" seamline from the fold to cut edges. Be sure to secure the stitches. Grade the seams to reduce bulk (fig. 18)
2. Turn bands right side out and press (fig. 19).
Attaching the Bands
Topstitched band
1. Pin the band to the sleeve with right sides together. Make sure the interfaced side of the band is against the sleeve. Match the seam edges, notches, dots, and ends of band to ends of sleeve. Place pins on the sleeve side (fig. 20).
2. Sew on 5/8" seamline with sleeve side facing up (fig. 20).
3. Turn sleeve seam into band. Fold the remaining edge of band section under on a 1/2" line and press. Pin folded edge to cover the stitching line (about 1/8" overlap) (fig. 21).
4. From right side of sleeve band, topstitch (fig. 22) or stitch-in-the-ditch (fig. 23) to finish the band.
5. Sew buttonhole and button on band.
Quick Band
1. When finishing the lower edge of the sleeves, DO NOT sew the facing or binding in place-leave them loose
2. Pin the band (both thicknesses) to the sleeve, matching the seamedges, notches, dots. Match the ends of band to the seams of placket binding or facing. Place pins on the sleeve side.
3. Fold the placket bindings or facing over the ends of the band and pin (fig. 24).
4. Sew the band to the sleeve on 5/8" "seamline using one of the following methods:
a. Sew on 5/8" with straight stitch. Zigzag stitch the seam 1/4" from seamline and trim seam allowance close to stitching (fig. 25).
b. Serge the band to the sleeve. Secure the threads ends (fig. 26)
5. Turn the band into position and fold the binding or facing in place over the band.
6. Sew buttonhole and button on band (fig. 27).
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.
Reprinted March 2001Electronic Distribution August 2001